So, you want to make dollhouse miniatures but you aren't sure what materials to use. Some break down over time, some are prone to moisture damage and others just aren't strong enough. Well, there are a few things to consider, such as what is the purpose of your miniature, what is your budget, how long you want it to last, will children be playing with it, what is your skill level, how much space you have, and will you be selling it?
Budget and skill are definitely a consideration for many people and can have a big impact on the materials you can afford to use. Many miniaturists start out using paper, cardboard and recycled packaging materials such as plastics and foams, and this is a great place to start when you are learning and even better, you can afford to make mistakes. With some clever paint application, you can even recreate some high-end finishes like wood, chrome and marble. The downside is they usually aren't very strong and don't hold their age well. Great if you enjoy the making but not if you want to pass it on as a family heirloom or sell it. Wouldn't you be very disappointed to buy a miniature only to find it was made from cardboard?
Things that break down - clear plastic packaging, which is often used by miniaturists for making windows, is very thin therefore not strong and prone to cracking and yellowing over time. I've seen many a beautiful miniature with opaque, cracked yellow windows and don't forget sticky tape, we've all seen old brown falling-off tape. Foam packaging is another popular construction material, and while it may not break down quickly it isn't very robust, dents easily and is prone to shedding bits if not well sealed. Florist foam is designed for short-term use and disintegrates very quickly. Soft foams like in cushions are ok in real life where you are likely to have replaced your lounge or had it re-upholstered well before the foam has given out, but in a miniature, you don't want to have to re-upholster that one-of-a-kind collectible because the cushion has collapsed.
An alternative for windows is clear craft acrylic (approx.7mm) often sold by the A4 sheet on eBay, Amazon and the like. For making mini packaging, look for quality tapes like Scotch Transparent, 3M Clear or tapes and plastics that mention being archival and acid-free. For landscaping and modelling try balsa wood which is easy to carve, plaster of Paris and air-dry modelling clay. For soft furnishings and toys use wadding or stuffing pellets. Surprisingly sand also makes a good stuffing for toys and scatter cushions.
Things that aren't strong and are moisture sensitive - Materials like cardboard and foam core have their place in craft but they need careful consideration when used to make miniatures. Neither of these materials is particularly robust, they might be ok for small items that don't get handled often but not to make weight-bearing structures or for long-term use. They particularly need careful sealing so they aren't affected by dampness. On the topic of painting, unless you are a master of painting techniques, they won't replace wood, and concealing the edges takes a lot of patience and skill. And again, not something I would use if planning to sell.
Wood will usually be the best option unless you are looking for an ultra-modern Perspex look or are skilled in metalwork. Now when I say wood, not all wood is equal. Some are too hard, some are too soft, some are not strong enough when cut down to miniature proportions and sometimes the grain is too big or knotty. Fine furniture-making timber is usually pretty ideal, this can be sourced from all sorts of places including furniture makers but my favourite source is second-hand and broken furniture and old timber blinds. Look out for silky oak, jelutong, cedar, cherry, mahogany, beech, ash, birchwood and pine which is ok but you need to be a little picky and look for old fine-grained pine. Basswood (not to be confused with balsa wood) is a popular craft timber and is fine-grained and relatively easy to cut. Popsicle sticks (as seen on the floor in the picture), tongue depressors and coffee stirrers are also excellent sources of timber that are easy to cut, sand, stain and paint. For larger sheets to make room boxes, and dollhouses look for plywood and MDF, though be prepared to use a good quality paint to seal it as both ply and particularly MDF are prone to water damage.
If you spend any time on Facebook, Instagram or Pinterest you have no doubt seen people talking about using balsa wood. Just because it is sold in the woodwork or craft section at most craft stores, hardware stores and discount stores doesn't mean it is the right timber for miniatures. And just because it is easy to cut with a blade rather than a saw doesn't mean it should be used. It is a great timber for model aeroplanes and boats, being so lightweight, but they go to great lengths to seal it with fancy expensive products to make it stronger, waterproof and achieve a smooth paint finish. If you have ever tried to paint or stain it I'm sure you have cursed. It is absorbent like a sponge and the grain lifts, requiring many, many hours of sanding between coats, and trying to get a smooth finish when staining is just not worth it for something so delicate and so easily broken. The only time balsa wood is suitable is for the solid internal structures of things like lounge suites and carving non-intricate items you don't want to make out of modelling clay, but be prepared to put in the time sealing it to take a smooth paint finish.
There are many ways of sourcing quality materials for little to no cost; visit op shops, roadside clean-ups, manufacturing businesses for off-cuts, and recycling centres like reverse garbage and spread the word with your friends. Your biggest hurdle now will be storage.
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